KERALA, INDIA
How a Short Cruise in Kochi Backwaters Turned into a Lesson in Ornithology and Ecology
Sindhu Murthy
The wide network of backwaters that are spread across the coastal circuit of Kerala in India has become an integral part of the tourism in Kerala so much so that no visit to Kerala is considered complete without going on a backwater cruise. Though we always tend to go off the beaten track during our travels, we change our preferences while at Fort Kochi to go on a cruise in Kochi backwaters like the regular tourists do. It is not our first tryst with backwaters in Kerala for we have spent time in the crowded Alleppey backwaters a couple of years back and have also explored the lesser known backwaters of the Valiaparamba in North Kerala a couple of months back. With not much anticipation, we hire a boat for a backwater cruise in the Kundannur area in Kochi. Since it is a weekday, there are not many visitors at the jetty. It is quarter past 5 in the evening as we step into the boat that is allotted to us. we are welcome by high rise concrete structures of hotels and apartments towering high from beneath the coconut groves lining the backwaters on either side.
The non-operational Chinese fishing net in the backwaters
Kundanoor, Kochi.
“Look, that is cricketer Srishanth’s home” the boat driver exclaims with a twinkle in his eye pointing to one of the villas on the waterfront. Quite surprised by our disinterest in taking photographs of the home, he steers the boat further towards a few makeshift shacks made for farming fish and prawns on the backwater banks. A non-operational Chinese fishing net stands next to the fish farms. From the overgrowth of weeds around it, It is evident that the net is no longer in use and is probably kept there for the tourists. However, it does make for a great sight with the backdrop of the coconut trees. Moving further, we see more fishing nets standing idle. The area was probably a fishing village a couple of years back. But it seems like the village has made way for rapid urbanization and all we can see are a few multi-storeyed apartments and posh hotels on the banks of the backwaters. The fishing nets are probably retained as vestiges from the past for aesthetic reasons.
A little further into the backwater, the driver suddenly kills the engine bringing the boat to a complete still. With a whisper, he points to a Kingfisher on a stump nearby. That marks the beginning of our bird watching experience on Kochi backwaters. As we steer further in the backwaters, the driver shows us more birds with great enthusiasm. There are hundreds of herons and egrets spread all along the backwaters nibbling on the aquatic creatures. A couple of brahmin kites plunge occasionally into the water to catch fish.
Moving further, we see numerous black cormorants perched on the stilts waiting for prey. A couple of them spread their wings wide for drying. The driver tells us that the cormorants’ feathers are not waterproof and hence after every couple of dives in water, they spread out their wings for drying. He also mentions that each of the cormorants can feed on about 7 kg of fish every day. Though we do not believe the latter fact, we listen to him with attention as he tells us more about the birds.
The driver kills the engine once again to stop the boat, this time to show us a couple of darters. They are also called as snake birds by the locals because of the long snake-like neck they have. He then takes us to a few islands and marshlands covered by mangroves. The water hyacinth plants float gracefully in the ripples of the water. The purple flowers of the plants look pretty as they reflect in the water. However, our fascination with the flowers stays only till we see that the weed has covered a huge stretch of the backwaters amidst the mangroves. It looks alarming that the weed has encroached such a huge surface area. When we ask the driver if no action is taken to deweed, he brushes it off stating that it is tough to avoid the plant which grows at an alarming rate and since not much fishing happens in that part of the backwaters, no attention is given to it. The huge amount of effluent waste that flows into the backwaters every day has probably resulted in the rapid growth of the weed. We discuss how the water hyacinth can deplete oxygen in the water leading to the death of aquatic life- a detail we had read during our school days.
The overgrown water hyacinth weed encroaching the vast expanse of backwaters surrounding the mangroves.
We turn around our boat for the return and see a fisherman trying to sort his net. It appears that the hyacinth plants have damaged the net when he spread it out to catch fish. As we try to approach his boat, he signals us to move on and not to get close as he fears that the engine sound might drive the fish away. There is complete silence in the boat as we steer back towards the jetty. We wonder if there is really not much harm caused by the weed or it is just that the locals have turned a blind eye towards the problem.
Traditional fishing in Kochi Backwaters
I’ve never heard of Kochi, but this cruise seems like a great choice! Nothing beats seeing nature and immersing yourself in it. My recent trip to Ireland made me appreciate a calm yet constantly changing landscape. Great post!
Some beautiful photos there – I love that shot of the kingfisher on the stump. And, I agree the water hyacinths look stunning – I wonder if it is true that they destroy the ecological balance so badly. It looks like a great cruise experience
I always love a good story of unexpected good events. I didn’t know about the water hyacinths creating ecological unbalance. I also had not heard of Kochi before but this seems like not just a pretty cruise but a very educational one too. The non-operational Chinese fishing net in the backwaters look like a great photo op too 🙂 Lovely pictures
Your photos are amazing! Love the bird one, so crisp and clear. I love trips that turn into learning experiences. We homeschool and that is a huge part of our travels!
Good to know this.. Last visit I rode around the backwater area in car.. will try boat cruise next time
Fishing can be so rewarding but I guess the water hyacinths getting stuck in the nets really frustrates the fisherman. I can imagine the fisherman in the boat getting frustrated with the noise and the problems with his net. Those Chinese fishermans nets you’ve photographed are so iconic!
What a fantastic adventure. Would love to visit and navigate down this river. To answer your question, yes I have been on many a trip that makes me introspect. Did lots of that while in Scotland. Any time I am in nature I tend to do that. And Scotland had a way of bringing out this part of me like no other country has.
You are like me, I would have had zero interest in the homes of the rich or famous, nor in the new build hotels etc. But the sight of the birds and the natural flora of the river and banks would be the attraction. Interesting to read the lack of action taken to eradicate the weed, as it is clearly affecting the fishing, but I guess since fishing is no longer the main industry here anymore, not enough people are concerned to do anything.
I love tours like this where you get to see the natural beauty in a unique way. It must be so difficult to spot the wildlife (esp birds) on your own. So it is certainly nice to have a knowledgeable guide who can point that out for you!
Interesting that you talk of this introspection. My trip to the Alleppey backwaters made me do exactly this. It is quite fascinating to see how they have made these channels their life line and yet there are aspects of it like the Hyacinth growing that they seem to be reluctant to change. I loved reading your views about these and tend to agree with a lot of them. Very beautifully put Sindhu. Cheers
How wonderfully penned Sindhu! when I visited the backwaters in Kumarakom, I was smitten by the bird sightings, mostly in the marshes. Being an avid birder, I wanted to stop and take pictures but couldn’t do it all the time as the houseboat was moving. You have had some wonderful sightings of the Pond heron, egrets, cormorants and darter bird! 🙂
You are so right about the hazards that locals refuse to see because of rampant tourism. The water hyacinth can be a disaster! Thanks for this refreshing perspective on the backwaters!
The experiences that you least expect to encounter the best tales of the trip! Beautiful photography. You captured the peace and tranquility of this place. Great post! Safe travels, Mariella
Never thought weeds could look so beautiful! Really, it is amazing how the God’s own country teaches us so much from within nature. This reminded me of my own trip to spice gardens near munnar where we learnt so much about spices and medicinal plants that we use, but really don’t know why. And here you were learning ornithology and ecology on the backwaters…wonderful!
Cruises like this are such a great way to see the countryside from a unique angle. Plus they make for some amazing photos! Great job!
Cruising on the backwaters of Kerala must indeed be one of the most blissful experiences on earth. On our last visit, we went for a cruise just before sunrise and the experience was nothing short of magical. It is such an experience to watch the flora and fauna and it is truly the best education one can have.
Have heard a lot about the “God’s own country” but your photos shows why backwater cruise is the best way to immerse yourself in the tranquility of the place.
That shot you took of the traditional fishing in kochi backwaters is amazing. I love going on trips that really allow you to see the culture and teach you new things. I’m currently in Kenya which really shines a light on water consumption. Very few actually have access to clean water and have to walk hours to the nearest well. Makes me appreciate living in Canada and much more cautious on how much water I use.