The first day of our trek started from Pahalgam and was actually a day hike for acclimatization. Trek to Betab Valley and Baisaran Valley were the two options we had. The previous night, we had seen heavy rain in Pahalgam and chose to do the former to avoid the slush on the trail. The 8 km hike to Betab valley in the dense pine forest along the Lidder river turned out to be a stunner and how! Mild drizzle, lush green meadows, gigantic pine trees, a gurgling river, and the occasional encounter with the gypsies and their horses almost made our day. We could see the traffic movement on the main road leading to Betab valley and Chandanwari and felt so close to civilization and yet so far because we were watching all this from the pristine forests on the other side of the valley.

The 2nd day of our trek in Kashmir was filled with anticipation. Our acclimatization trek on the previous day had left us with high enthusiasm and we were eagerly looking forward to more breathtaking views. The trekking trail on day 2 turned out to be tougher than on day 1. We started our trek from the Aru valley, along a glacial stream. Within a short distance, the trail started to get steeper, taking us over multiple wooden bridges across the gushing stream. The forest grew thicker and the trail muddier ( thanks to the rain and constant plying ponies and horses by the shepherds and gypsies).

By the time we took a break for lunch at one of the streams, we were already drained. How we wished to camp there for the location looked so beautiful. A gushing river, massive mountains all around, and a spouting waterfall from between the bounders on one of the mountains – it looked like a postcard. It was still midday and we had a long way to go before we could reach our base camp. After a short rest post lunch, we continued our onward trek. After crossing the stream many more times, going down and up along multiple valleys and ridges, we finally arrived at Arrampathri basecamp.

It was almost sundown by the time we reached the base camp at Arrampathri. The tents were already pitched and the table was set to feed us with fresh fruits and hot Kahwa. The shepherds staying nearby visited us with their kids to greet us. We had crossed a moderately tough trail over about 8 hrs but all the exhaustion of the day soon faded away with the light as we sat at the campsite sipping hot Kahwa. I wouldn’t be exaggerating if I claim that the base camp at Arrampathri was a destination in itself. Tents facing the glacial stream, Shepherd’s hut across the stream, the water gushing down a rocky patch nearby that produced a constant gurgling sound, fringes of the pine forest on one side, and panoramic view of massive mountains all around us. It couldn’t get any more beautiful.

Day3 was the highlight of our trek in Kashmir. The trek started pleasantly as we crossed the Arrampathri ridge and proceeded further. The glacial stream kept us company all along. The trees and shrubs were long gone behind us as we gradually gained altitude. It felt like we were on a massive staircase – with each ridge we crossed, we gained some altitude and entered a valley at a higher ground. We continued along the trail and crossed another smaller ridge – that is when we encountered the vast and breathtakingly beautiful Nafran valley. Covered in a lush carpet of green and yellow flowers popping out here and there- it looked like a fairyland.

The massive size of the Nafran Valley humbled us. The ginormous mountains on either side made us look like tiny specs of sand scattered in the valley. The trail got tougher and steeper thereafter.

The final ridge called Harnag pass that we had to cross stood before us. The size and terrain of it intimidated us. The steep ascent of the ridge was covered in loose stones. Every time someone stepped on the boulders, the layers of the stone would chip off and slide down. To make it worse, the final ascent of the ridge was actually a waterfall. The rocks were slippery due to the constant flow of water and we had no other way but to walk along this path.

Harnag pass tested our grit and endurance beyond our presumed limit. But the view from the top made it worth all the effort. The glistening lake of Harbhagawan on one side and the massive expanse of Nafran valley on the other – it looked magical. We had late lunch on the banks of Harbhagawan lake surrounded by beautiful mountains all around and a glacier feeding it from the side. How we wished to camp there, but we had to return to our base camp, sigh! It was late evening by the time we returned to Arrampathri. We trekked for ~18 km that day. It was not easy and our legs ached badly. We had lost all our energy but no one complained because we knew it was worth all the effort.

The final day of our trek to Nafran valley marked the perfect closure of our adventure. Bidding adieu to our pretty campsite at Arrampathri, we climbed the rocky ridge towards the right of the campsite. The ascent was steep and we did the spider walk holding on to the wild rosemary bushes growing abundantly on the steep slopes. The pleasant smell of the wild Rosemary blooms made the ascent more bearable. Though the stretch was pretty difficult, the confidence from the previous day’s feat kept us going. As the day proceeded the trail gradually turned flat at the top and later started descending. The rain clouds had started to accumulate and we had to rush down before it started pouring. By 5 pm, we had reached the main road leading to Chandwari where our ride back to the guesthouse awaited.