Remembering Ladakh with a Cup of Kahwa
Thick clouds of dust rose behind us as our white gypsy meandered through the narrow alleys of Leh in Ladakh to reach our hotel from the Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport. By the time we reached the hotel, all I wished for was a cup of piping hot tea to bring back my senses and a comforting pillow to rest my aching head. The breathtaking view, which I could see from my window seat, of the snow-clad peaks and the meandering blue of the rivers in the Himalayan valleys, had succeeded in keeping me awake during the early morning flight from Delhi to Leh. As I walked into the high altitude airport of Leh situated at 3256m above sea level, everything around me seemed to be moving at half the regular speed. A recording of a sober female voice played on the airport speakers giving us instructions not to move briskly and to take adequate rest during our first day in Leh. The airport staff dressed in long woolen Gouchas walked languidly about their chores. The temperature outside was seemingly low even though the sun had risen quite high above the horizon. Fatigue had already crept over me because of the reduced content of oxygen in the air.
The aerial view of the town of Leh
After a quick exchange of wishes and an introduction with the hotel manager at the Ladakh Himalayan Retreat Hotel, we were shown to the in-house restaurant for a welcome drink. Traditional Buddhist paintings in bright colors of red, green, yellow and blue decked up the walls of the restaurant. A cornucopia of local art made of wood, metal, and porcelain placed on the walls and in the corners of the restaurant beautifully complemented the colorful walls. As I sat on the traditional wooden sofa in the restaurant lobby, I was introduced to Kahwa, a delectable cup of tea from Kashmir which has since become my favorite.
I could sense the heavenly aroma of Kahwa even before I took a sip off the bone china cup. The tea was clear with no milk and had a lovely tint of deep amber. As I savored each sip of Kahwa, I could taste the distinct flavors of the different spices in it. The sweetness of the cardamon and cinnamon greatly complemented the mild pungent flavor of saffron and the bitter flavor of the green tea leaves while the nutty flavor imparted by the chunks of almonds blended well with the honey to make it taste like nectar on every sip. Through the lobby window, I could see a couple of magpies hopping between the poplar trees which lined the periphery of the hotel compound. Loose puffs of clouds brushed past the snow-clad peaks of the Stock ranges behind the foreground. None of that seemed appealing to me as I relished the second helping of Kahwa.
Kashmiri Kahwa served in a shallow porcelain cup
Photo source: Youtube
An ornate Kashmiri samovar made of copper
Photo source: Wiki Creative Commons
Kahwa is traditionally prepared in an ornate brass pot named Samovar which has a central cavity to hold hot charcoal. A second cavity surrounding the central cavity is where water is boiled along with the exotic spices along with a few strands of saffron and some crushed Kashmiri green tea leaves. The ingredients are left in the samovar till the flavors are infused well. The charcoal cavity in the Samovar ensures that the tea remains hot in the container for long. Once the brew is ready, it is transferred into shallow cups made of brass called Khos. A spoon of honey or sugar is added based on preference to add more sweetness. A generous helping of almond gratings is sprinkled on top before serving.
Kahwa is loved for the warming effect it provides in cold climates. It is caffeine free and yet has the ability to boost concentration and immunity because of the rich spices infused into it. The fact that it aids in digestion has resulted in the practice of having Kahwa after meals in most of the Kashmiri households. The goodness of Kahwa is marketed by many tea brands in instant tea bags. So, if you are not in the mood to spend a long time to brew that ecstatic cup of Kashmiri Kahwa on a cold winter evening, you know there is instant help available wrapped in tiny muslin packets.
It has been over 6 months since I have returned from my trip to Ladakh but I remember every detail of my visit as if it happened yesterday. As I curl up in my cozy couch with a warm cup of homemade Kahwa on a cool winter evening, the nostalgia of the ecstatic time I had at Ladakh induces an intense Saudade in me. Have you ever felt such connection with any food or a beverage that would bring back memories of the destination where you tried it first?
Wow… This article took me back to my first brush with Kahawa. I have intense memories with it too, being the only drink that was a soothing after my memorable accident. Hehe
Thank you Deepika. Sorry to learn about the accident but I m sure you have gotten over it now and the awesome cup of Kahwa has healed you well 🙂
Your post brought back memories of my trip to Kashmir few months back. I loved the taste and aroma of kahwa, so much so that I chose it as a souvenir for my close friends and relatives. Beautifully written 🙂
Thanks, Anjali. Kahwa is one of the best souvenirs you can get back from the valleys.
I had the best of kahwa in Kashmir. It was so good that during my entire stay in Kashmir, I had kahwa everyday. I have seen a real samovar. It is popular not only in India but as far as Russia and Iran. You make me want to visit Ladakh again.
Though I didn’t have a chance to drink Kahwa made in a samovar I did happen to see a Samovar at the king’s home at Turtuk. I m sure a lot of Kashmiri households would have samovars in their homes. I m quite hopeful of finding more of it when I visit Kashmir next.
I have tasted Kahwa in the middle east. It tastes so good that the flavor is totally different from any other drink. Thank you for writing an article on this spiced drink.
Thanks George. I m glad you the post brought back memories of your trip.
I can’t imagine how you’ve felt getting off that plane and dealing with the altitude sickness. It is not great and I was lucky to adapt quite quickly when I traveled to high altitude cities in the world. Kahwa sounds like a delicious tea and I love how much care goes into its preparation. I would love to try it.
It was not easy Joanna to get adjusted to the high altitudes. Luckily, Kahwa helped me recover very quickly.
Wow Kahawa is awesome! It looks like a super delicious tea. Hope that I could try it once in my life!! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Vu Thanh Ha. Hope you get o taste it real soon.
This tea brings about such a classic and elegant atmosphere! The origin of it is also meaningful. And the fact that you returned home with nothing but the memory of its taste has proved how valuable this Kahwa tea is!
Thanks, Thu Ho. Kahwa has been definitely special and I still remember every flavor that unfurled on my tongue when I had it.
Kahwah is definitely akin to an elixir of sorts. The other day I had a cup of Kahwah, not in Kashmir but at an event in one of the 5 star hotels. The aroma and fragrance of the concoction immediately brought memories of Kashmir like a gush of fresh air.
Rightly said Sandhya. Kahwa is nothing short of an elixir.
First of all, Kahwa really seems to be very tasty. On top of that, when you have it in Ladakh, I can imagine how beautiful the feeling will be. And then ,I can totally relate to what you are saying here Sindhu. Some trips are so beautiful, some locations so unforgetful that the memories they create remain afresh with us no matter how many days pass. That’s the beauty of traveling..
Well said Neha 🙂 When we find a connection with a place we visit, everything about it becomes so special. I m still wondering if I remember the entire episode because of my love for Kahwa or because I was enchanted by my first encounter with the beauty of Ladakh.
I love your background information on this tradition of tea-drinking in Ladakh. I have been to Tibet this year and definitely want to explore the other side of the Himalayas, too. Thanks for whetting my appetite 😉
Thanks, Dennis. Kahwa does have some interesting stories of origin.
Leh is a place that is so unique and never is satiated in one visit , the feelings that arose around the unique tea that is so integral to J&K has been described so well by you with some amazing visuals .. thx for sharing
Thanks Sumit.
Your beautifully-written first sentence caught me and I’m hooked. You have a very fine way of writing. You chase images with words. That description of your experience with drinking kahwa evoked a lot of sensory imagery in me and, now, I’ve just opened a new tab to teach myself how to make my own cup of kahwa. After all, I love green tea and spices. 🙂
Hey Rye. You literally made my day with your beautiful compliment. Thank you very much for your appreciation, but then a fine drink like Kahwa definitely asks for such elaborate description. Trust me, when you try it, you too would feel the same ecstasy 🙂
Sindhu – you have no idea how I ache for Ladakh too. I was just telling a friend that I have this itch to get back there again and here I see your post. I can practically taste the Kahwa after reading it. Loved the way you have described the process of making it. Quite a unique one. The manner of making it, itself makes the taste so sweet.
Thanks Ami. I know what it feels when you have that itch of going back to Ladakh again. How about a trip together? I would love to explore it all over again with Ladakhi Jones 🙂
Very informative article. I would love to see more photos from this adventure.
I haven’t been to Kashmir yet so I’m very intrigued with how it looks like.
Interesting read! Really liked the pictures too, especially the one looking out of plane! Really nice view!
I sometimes wonder how such a culturally rich place where trade used to happen is now a confused place on the map of India, because of a bunch of islamic zealots from Pakistan who are hell bent on confusing Kashmiri people
Sindhu – that was a great article on Kahwa. I have quite a few Kashmiri friends and have heard them talk about this with lot of love ! I am yet to visit Ladakh to have my tryst with it
I’d be the first to admit that I am more of a coffee than a tea person. It’s amazing to find though how much thought and preparation comes into the preparation of kahwa tea, which by the way, I never heard of before. I like the thought of enjoying this tea in a winter night, there is a certain allure to it.